The entire evolution and natural history of the Class Aves is defined by one thing: flight. All physiological and anatomical features of any bird reflect this awesome history. Even ostriches, rheas, emus, and penguins retain features that exhibit their flighted ancestry. Consider: lack of teeth; large brain; hollow bones; advanced cardiorespiratory system; compact center of gravity; super-efficient digestive tract; streamlined reproductive system; feathers; and high metabolism.
In the wild, birds burn a tremendous amount of energy simply maintaining normal body temperature (what a budgie needs in one day to stay alive could keep a desert tortoise going for about a year). When they fly, the metabolic rate increases logarithmically. To keep this rate going, most birds seek out high-energy foods and have the ability to lay on fat in a single day. In addition, the foods found in natural habitats rarely resemble the foods in our croplands or on the grocery store shelves. If you live near a natural area, just try to imagine what the native birds are eating out there. It is certainly NOT millet, apples, or spaghetti. The nutrients in native foods are complex, and birds eat many parts of the plant (the pod, buds, leaves, resin, etc.). Often a "fruit" resembles an acorn, and only the outer skin is scraped off and eaten.
Most birds have adapted to constricted habitat requirements, and may have specific dietary needs. For example, most tropical habitats are deficient in iron, and some tropical bird species have developed an "iron-hoarding" mechanism. When they eat grocery store items, they are quickly overloaded with iron and die from iron storage disease. The same can be said about protein (more below on this topic) and phosphorus. High phosphorus levels are found in flowers, fruit, and meat. A natural drive to consume high-phosphorus items would be adaptive in the native habitats that are deficient, but in captive animals it can lead to severe and fatal calcium deficiency and heart disease.
Many of the bird species that we have as companions come from habitats that are severely restricted. Although a tropical forest appears lush and exuberant, the harsh reality is that food is very difficulty to find. Many tropical species fly dozens of miles everyday, in the sunshine and rain, and forage on a diversity of plant types.
Many of the Australian species are adapted to a feast-or-famine habitat. Food is extremely hard to find, and of exceedingly poor quality. When high calorie foods are available to budgies, cockatiels and cockatoos, they eat as much as possible and reproduce as much as possible. The next feast is unpredictably far off. Hence the many reproductive disorders we see in these birds as pets, on a rich, predictable diet.
To keep our companion birds healthy, we have to remember their natural history and wild heritage. There is no possibility of providing complete natural foods, exercise, biodiversity and weather conditions in a captive situation. So we, as caretakers, have to be responsible for compensating the dietary needs of our avian friends.
see: Basic Care NO! and YES!
Dietary Notes: You really mean no seeds?
Seeds as a sole diet are deficient in essential amino acids, calcium and vitamins. Reduced levels of vitamin A, a common problem with all-seed diets, alter the immune system and make a bird susceptible to severe bacterial, viral or fungal infections. Remember: seeds are the storage units for baby plants. Plants make their own nutrients. Seeds are very high in fat and low in almost every other nutrient. Think of seeds as rocket fuel: in the wild, extra fat has positive survival value. The companion bird is a '61 Volkswagen: rocket fuel could do some major damage.
To alleviate the problem, you can feed your companion bird vegetables and pellets. Vegetables high in vitamin A include carrots, sweet potatoes, yams, dark leafy greens, and winter squash.
The exact requirements for all species of companion birds are not known. People working with different groups of birds have recognized that some species have different nutritional needs. For example, Quakers and Amazon parrots should have diets lower in fat and cholesterol; African Grey parrots and conures have special calcium needs; and macaws require a higher concentration of fatty acids as found in certain nuts (almonds, macadamia nuts, walnuts and pecans).
A quick note about dietary protein: most pet birds are herbivores or granivores. Their digestive system is very efficient at extracting amino acids and proteins from plant material. Their liver and kidneys use a different method of processing proteinaceous material than the mammalian system. Animal proteins are especially harmful (egg, meat, fish products). I know you are going to say: "but insects are part of their diet in the wild!" Well, yes, and no. Some of the older studies have been shown to be erroneous. And insects are a complicated food item, not just protein (and different protein than vertebrates); but highly fibrous; and having gut contents containing vegetable matter, trace elements and vitamins. Overloading with protein, especially animal protein, will lead to severe kidney dysfunction, gout, calcium/phosphorus imbalance, reproductive disorders, feather-picking, and death. Pet birds should be offered a minimum amount of legumes (never give tofu), sprouts, or other high-protein plant material.
Grit is not necessary for birds, and will cause digestive problems and death. The best sources of minerals (and vitamins) are leafy greens.
Dietary conversion is a very stressful time. It is up caretakers to observe EVERY bird and make sure there is poop and food consumption. No poop = no food intake. Typically cockatiels and cockatoos are stubborn, or birds housed as singles. At first it will be ok to put a small quantity of familiar seed in with the good diet. Seed cakes are ok as a starter diet for dedicated seed junkies if they are determined to starve instead of eating pellets. But they all will eventually eat the good diet.
It helps to actually hand each bird his treat (if that is a possibility) of yam bread or seedcakes. Plenty of praise and human interaction, if the bird likes people, will really speed things up.
Or goal is to get them off the seedcakes, yam bread and rice mix (and save it for treats only) to a diet of pellets and vegetables. It may take 2 days or 2 months. It can be very frustrating and stressful for all concerned; however, the first day I see most of the cockatoos and macaws eating pellets. Just touching them is a major step! I have never failed to see a psittacine convert to pellets. Canaries and finches generally dive right in.
We will use this same protocol with new birds while they are in quarantine, and have them switched over when they are available.
Enrichment is extremely important to birds. If you can come up with some fun and interesting ways to present food, just do it.
Estimated IQ for some parrots is equal to an 8 year-old child, and I personally think it is much higher; that includes little budgies and canaries! And don't forget that big birds are like 8 year-olds with a jackhammer. So think what might occupy those busy little minds, filled with destructive behavior. You can probably come up with some toys, and there is a great book on homemade, super-cheap parrot toys if anyone wants to make some
Conversion Diet for Pet Birds: Parrots, Finches, and Canaries
YAM BREAD (cornbread mix+cooked yam)
Conures and larger: 1 cube per bird daily
Smaller birds: 1/2 cube daily
Disperse cubes in branches, in forks, or spear on stumps; hand individual birds their cubes.
RICE MIX (cooked short-grain brown rice plus fresh veg)
Conures and larger: 1/4 cup per bird daily
Smaller birds: 1/8 cup daily
Disperse in multiple feeding cups.
PELLETS (we recommend Harrison's and T.O.P.)
Conures and larger: 1/4 cup coarse per bird daily
Smaller birds: 1/8-cup fine daily
Disperse in multiple feeding cups.
SEED CAKES (only for severe seed junkies)
Conures and larger: 2 cubes per bird daily
Smaller birds: 1 cube daily, smush it slightly
VEGETABLES
Entire leaves of greens poked through the cage wires or on branches
Corn wheels
Cooked yams or squash
Whole carrots, tops included
Half of apple and whole (opened but not peeled) banana poked on sticks (in the aviaries)
Grapes, citrus, pomegranate, persimmon, etc. One small slice per bird. Put on twigs etc.
TREATS
1 nut per large bird; or
1 inch cube good bread; or other nutritious treat.
After the conversion
Birds will greatly enjoy sharing dinner with their owners. They can eat most things that people should eat (healthy foods). Whole grain cereals, breads and crackers are good occasional snacks. Be sure to read the label! Never give "fortified" items with extra vitamins or minerals; especially human foods that have additional zinc. Some human enriched-products already have zinc levels that can be toxic to pet birds.
Safe suggestions include:
air-popped popcorn
toasted oat cereal
puffed wheat cereal
unsalted, baked crackers
plain rice cakes
cooked rice or pasta
Never allow a bird to eat from your mouth. The natural bacteria in a bird’s mouth and a human’s mouth differ, and human bacteria are always pathogenic to birds.
Cages
Having a nice place to live is important for your companion bird. A well-designed and well-maintained cage sets the stage for a healthy environment and makes cleanup easier. You may want to consider one cage for daytime use and one sleeping cage at night in a quiet, darkened room.
When choosing a cage, they should be longer than they are tall because birds fly from side to side, not up and down. Canaries and finches particularly like to fly back and forth from perch to perch.
Avoid areas near air conditioning ducts, heating vents and ceiling fans. It is best to not place the cage directly in front of a window where hot sun can beat down on your bird or a raptor can fly by and scare your bird.
Make sure the bar spacing is the appropriate width so your bird cannot squeeze its head between the bars to cause serious injury or even death. With larger birds, it is important for the bars to be strong enough so that they cannot bend them with their beaks.
Avoid cages made with dipped galvanized metal as birds may peck at and ingest residual beads of metal, causing zinc or lead poisoning. Decorative cages made of wicker or basket materials cannot be sanitized properly and psittacine birds can chew out of them easily and escape.
Line the cage bottom with sheets of papers (newspaper, butcher paper or computer paper) and remove individual layers daily (or more frequently, if needed). Look at the bird’s droppings when cleaning the cage to make sure they are normal!
If grates are used (allowing droppings and food to fall out of a bird’s reach), clean the tray at least weekly, but remember to change paper layers daily. Do not use shredded paper as a cage liner. Avoid nugget materials like corncob bedding, walnut shells, etc. Birds can ingest these, resulting in impaction. Some of these materials are highly toxic, and have heavy loads of bacterial and fungal spores.Finally, they hinder inspection of droppings, which is important in monitoring daily health.
It can be helpful to place cages on plastic carpet runners or desk mats to protect floors and ease cleaning.
Birds need at least 12 hours of quiet, dark time for sleep. If headlights sometimes shine on the cage at night, cover the cage to keep from frightening or disturbing your bird. A dim light or a nightlight may help keep your bird from being frightened during the night.
Placement and Perch Types (see: Basic Care Perches)
Rope perches or cleaned, natural branches are best for perches. Branches should not be sprayed with chemicals or insecticides if you are going to use them in your bird’s cage. It is important to spray them with an antibacterial soap and to rinse with hot water. You can use a spray made up of 1 part chlorine bleach and 20 parts water. When using chlorine bleach, make sure there is good ventilation and that other birds are not in the room where it is sprayed. Leave on for 15 minutes and then rinse with clean water and let dry.
Most birds will enjoy chewing on fresh branches, especially if the outer bark has not dried. It is good exercise for their beaks and provides enrichment. Make sure to remove any splintered pieces of wood or sharp pieces that could cause injury.
Select a size appropriate for your bird. Their nails should reach about half around the perch and never all the way around. However, the perch should not be so wide that the bird is unable to grasp it appropriately. Perches should vary in size and shape to vary footpad and toe pressure. Inappropriate perches can harm foot health and lead to ssevere foot infections.
A soft wood such as pine or aspen is preferred, especially for African greys. Manzanita perches are harder on their feet and slipperier, causing them to feel insecure. It may lead to a fear of falling, which inadvertently could create an adverse behavior. Cockatoos are notorious for chewing wood, but softer wood perches should still be available for them. Harder wood perches can cause foot problems to develop over time.
When positioning perches, be sure that droppings will not fall into food and water dishes. Make sure they are placed in a comfortable location for your bird to perch high but allow them to be able to get to their food and water dishes.
Daily Maintenance (see: Basic Care Bowls)
Food and water dishes should be cleaned and changed daily. Keep one set cleaned while the other is in use.
Use a cup or scoop to put food into your bird’s dishes so that you don’t contaminate the bucket of food.
Fresh, perishable food should be placed in separate food bowls. Remove fresh food from the cage after a couple of hours to avoid spoilage.
Change cage papers daily, and clean the grate and tray weekly.
Clean food debris or droppings from toys and perches as needed (which can be as often as once a day).
Weekly Maintenance
Clean the cage weekly. Wash the cage and perches with soap and rinse with water to remove organic matter.
Other very effective and safe disinfectants are available through your avian veterinarian.
Use disinfectants in well-ventilated areas for both human and avian health.
Daily Observations to Keep Your Bird Healthy (see: Basic Care Well vs Sick)
Keeping your feathered friend healthy requires that you watch out for any problems and any changes from normal, including any changes in normal behavior. Be alert for any discharges, including those from nostrils, eyes, beak. Monitor the appearance of he droppings for changes in color or consistency. The vent should be clean with no matting of the feathers. The bottom of the feet should not have any wear points or sores. Watch for changes in the amount of food and water consumed. Observe the rate, rhythm and depth of several respirations and check to make sure there is no open-mouth breathing. If you observe any changes, consult your avian veterinarian immediately.
Be alert for environmental stressors, as they can easily affect a bird’s health. If your bird becomes ill or has bouts of infection, consider whether any of the following apply.
lack of sleep: Birds need 10-12 hours of quiet sleep in a dark room nightly. If an area is always lit, a dark cover may be needed.
overcrowding: A cage full of birds may seem pleasing, but if the birds are fighting, picking each others’ feathers or falling ill, there could be too many. Reduce the number of birds if these conditions are present.
being hunted: A bird could be stressed if subjected to constant observation (staring). Companion birds are preyed upon by raptors and other animals and are sensitive to extended periods of a watchful gaze. They may also panic when a hawk flies by, especially if their cage sits directly in front of a window. Large objects like balloons or an overhead lamp above their cage can have the same stressful, frightening affect.
poor nutrition: Birds need clean water to drink and a balanced diet with fresh vegetables, especially those rich in vitamin A or beta carotene. When a bird is molting, it may also need additional protein and calcium-rich foods.
dirty environment: Birds are susceptible to molds and bacteria. Maintain a clean cage and cage items in a clean room.
over-stimulation: Birds need some "down time" to nap and preen. They shouldn’t live in the busiest hallway or room all of the time. A sleeping cage in a quiet room may be helpful.
Bathing (seeBasic Care Shower)
You may spray your bird in its cage or at the sink. If you use the cage, remove food, rawhide toys and rope before spraying your bird. A plant mister-type sprayer filled with tepid water works well. Spray a mist onto your bird to simulate rain. It is very likely that your feathered friend will react by spreading its wings out, and opening all its feathers to catch the droplets.
Some owners enjoy having their bird join them in their shower. Special perches and gadgets can be used or you can put them up on the shower bar after bathing. However, caution should be used to make sure that the bird only comes in contact with water and not with soaps, shampoos or sharp objects.
A shallow bowl of water may also be offered for bathing. Make sure it is heavy enough to not tip over when the bird perches on it. This is usually preferred by canaries and finches, conures and Amazons. Different birds are accustomed to bathing in different ways.
Bathing keeps feathers glossy, skin healthy, encourages birds to preen and keeps the epithelium of their sinuses moist. It is especially good for birds to bathe on hot days and in warm environments.
Hazards (see: Basic Care NO!)
Birds have an extensive respiratory tract with a large surface area. It even extends into some of the long bones such as the humerus in the wing and femur in the leg. This makes them particularly sensitive to airborne fumes and smoke. Remove birds from premises for at least 7 days to spray chemicals or when painting or laying carpeting.
Avoid fumes from:
cigarette smoke
dryer fabric softener sheets
scented detergents
carpet fresheners
window cleaners and other household cleaning products
perfumes and colognes
scented candles
new paint
fireplace smoke
termite fumigation
art supplies (fixatives, pigments)
aerosol sprays of any type
hairspray
cleaning solutions
new carpeting
air fresheners
